Iceland Day 6: West Iceland

On our last full day in Iceland, we made our way from Akureyri, the major city in the North, back towards Reykjavik. It was a long driving day, requiring a total of around 5-6 hours so we only really stopped at Hraunfossar, a waterfall on our way to Reykjavik. However the day was not without Iceland's usual breathtaking views. It was a bittersweet journey, knowing that the amazing views we saw were some of our last. A week is far too short a time to discover all of Iceland's treasures, but it was enough time for me to fall in love with this country, hard. All that kept me from tearing up, reliving the trip through these posts, was the promise that one day I'll come back. There's a magic about Iceland, in its untouched lands and endless beauty. Some of the experiences were so incredibly breathtaking that all the time in the world didn't seem like enough time to fully let the feeling sink in. It was an unforgettable trip and I cannot wait to return. Until next time.

On the road. 

This picture doesn't do this view justice. One of the most breathtaking moments on the trip. The clouds were breaking up, with patches of sunlight streaming onto a patchwork of fields and farmland. The backdrop is a chain of dark hills, enveloped in clouds. It's one of the few moments where the experience was almost religious; it is almost impossible to believe that a scene this magical and gorgeous wasn't made by some higher power.

A quick stop on the side of the road to stretch our legs. Of course everywhere in Iceland, even a random road stop results in a waterfall, a gurgling river, and a beautiful sight.

Hraunfossar is not the most popular tourist destination in Iceland but it was certainly not without its own beauty. This series of rivulets stems from water under the earth, coming from lava fields nearby. the little creeks appear from the rock itself, and end in a magnificent, roaring river.

Nearby is Barnafoss, a powerful, raging waterfall with a small and tasteful bridge of stone connecting the two sides.

Our last evening in Iceland, relaxing in our hotel's outdoor hot tub. It certainly doesn't compare to the natural hot springs, but it seemed fitting end our trip with water, enjoying the mountain view.

Iceland Day 5: East Iceland

The day started out terrifying. We were making our way from Hofn to Egilsstadir, which involved going up into the mountains. It was rainy and foggy, and we had to drive at a crawl for at least an hour in a thick mist that prevented our being able to see anything past a couple of feet around us. This means that we weren't sure if we were right next to a cliff edge or not, which was quite stressful. It didn't help that the road was gravel and not paved, making it for a stressful AND very bumpy ride. Eventually the clouds cleared and we made it to Fardagafoss, near the city of Egilsstadir. It isn't one of the so-called "must see" falls of Iceland, and it was more of an excuse to stretch our legs between Hofn and the Myvatn area where we were headed. However the falls were quite lovely, and I really enjoyed the view over Egilsstadir.

We got to Myvatn where we stopped for a dip at the Myvatn Nature Baths. Like the Blue Lagoon, it draws from the underground hot springs and was the perfect way to rest a tired body unused to hiking every day. It was not as fancy and touristy as the Blue Lagoon, but it had its merits. For one, it provided a nice view over the Myvatn area including Lake Myvatn and Hlidarfjall Mountain. It was also cheaper by a long shot, and did not require pre-booked tickets online.

We ended our day at Godafoss (waterfall of the Gods). I wish so much it had been sunny, because I'm sure Godafoss in the sun would be magnificent, accentuating every color, with a rainbow or two making an appearance. But it was regardless a thrilling and powerful waterfall to visit.

Hiking up to Fardagafoss, the view over Egilsstadir is beautiful.

Before reaching Fardagafoss, there is a second waterfall flowing into a gorge. Much of Iceland reminds me of Ithaca, which made the trip all the more special.

The handsome Fardagafoss. Apparently you can hike right up to the water, and there is a cave behind it. However we were short on time so we skipped that.

Dark clouds around Lake Myvatn as we were soaking in the Nature Baths.

On the top of Godafoss, you are able to make your way to right where the water actually falls. It's a quaint and fun little area to explore, forcing you so make use of the stepping stones all around the shallow waters.

The incredible power of Godafoss was undeniable, and it was thrilling to be so near something so majestic. 

Iceland Day 4: Southeast Iceland

Today we first made the 2.5 hour drive to Svartifoss, a waterfall within Vatnajokull National Park. This place was clearly the place to be if you're into hiking. There were throngs of people camping there, with intense (in tents?) hiking gear, walking sticks, huge backpacks that tell you they mean business. Within the national park there are like a billion trails to explore, of all levels of difficulty. We chose to stick just to seeing Svartifoss, but on my next trip (cause I'm coming back, dammit!), this will definitely be a place that we could explore more. We had a lovely picnic lunch next to Svartifoss, sunning ourselves on the large rocks next to the river that Svartifoss turns into. My mom says that this was her favorite meal of the trip, eating in the sun, with the sounds and sights of Svartifoss right next to us.

Next we made our way to the Jokulsarlon Glacier Lagoon. This was by far one of the most unique experiences that Iceland has to offer. It is a lake that huge chunks of ice that break off the mountains end up. It gives the whole area this translucent blue glow, and the sight of these huge glaciers drifting peacefully in a lake is just mesmerizing. Also, we saw a sea lion!

This was one of many unique landscapes in Iceland. After a volcanic explosion, the resulting landscape is a moss covered lava field, devoid of any plant matter aside from a thick layer of soft moss. Very eerie but beautiful.

The view of a snow capped peaks, shrouded in clouds at Vatnajokull National Park.

On the hike up to Svartifoss, we are gifted with the view of a smaller, downstream waterfall: Hundafoss.

Svartifoss from a distance. I loved how from afar, most of these waterfalls were not all that impressive, but up close, once you get to know them, they become unique and memorable each in their own way.

The black basalt columns surrounding Svartifoss (black falls) gives this waterfall its unique flair.

The mesmerizing and peaceful glacier lagoon.

Iceland Day 3: South Iceland

On day 3, we started our road trip around the country in earnest. We first drove the 2.5 hours from Reykjavik to Seljalandsfoss. This is the only waterfall that we visited that allowed us to go behind it, which was a incredible (albeit drenching) experience. On the left of Seljalandsfoss was a smaller waterfall, Gljufrabui, hidden inside a cave. If I had to choose one favorite part of my trip to Iceland, this waterfall would be it. To get to the waterfall, you must make your way into the cave that is its home, stepping on rocks in the small creek leading to the waterfall. There is no manmade path, and the adventure of the shaky stepping stones leads you into a small enclosure where it is just you, the waterfall, and the light streaming down from above. It is a magical, peaceful, powerful, indescribable experience. It's spiritual, in a way, if nature makes you feel as at peace with yourself as it does for me.

Next we go to Skogafoss. What I loved about Skogafoss was its location. We were able to admire the waterfall from below, but you also were able to take the stairs to hike to the top of it (about 200 feet). Situated on the Skoga river, you could see the river it turns into, and follow its winding path across meadows and farmland all the way to the beach. It was breathtaking.

Finally we make our way to Reynisfjara Black Sand Beach. I wasn't able to take a picture of the drive there (since I was driving and as pretty as Iceland is, it wasn't worth dying for,) but the scenic drive was amazing. We went up and down through mountains, and you could see the landscape transform from green hills dotted with sheep to flat plains, interrupted with winding rivers from waterfalls, all ending in a black stripe of sand beach that ultimately lead to the blue ocean. I can honestly say that some of the best times I spent in Iceland was just driving, watching the landscape transform around me, being enveloped physically and mentally by the land and sea, and where I was. I literally would feel anxiety about not being able to capture well enough the gorgeousness of the scenery. I wanted every moment to never end, because it was just so damn beautiful.

Seljalandsfoss

Gljufrabui waterfall from outside the cave. You can see the rocks and creek you must brave to get into the cave.

One of my favorite pictures from the trip. My sister in the cave, staring up at the falls and the sky with wonder. It captures perfectly the magic you feel, the connection with nature.

We also climbed a cliff to view the falls better, but it was a treacherous and clearly terrifying ordeal.

This was the best meal from my entire trip. Lunch at Hotel Anna, a tiny, nondescript farmhouse restaurant that served 3 dishes only. This was the lamb with potato cake. The lamb was the most tender and flavorful lamb I have ever had. It was warm, the salty gravy perfectly accentuated the gamey taste, and the skin was crisp. The potato cake it came with was hearty and tasty. The restaurant itself was very representative of the average Icelandic farm: quaint, small, cozy, humble, and welcoming.

Skogafoss, welcoming us with a rainbow and many tourists.

Reynisfjara black sand beach.

On the beach were these very unique basalt rock columns, that resulted in this formation after the rock was interrupted by molten lava. A fascinating and beautiful pattern that Iceland is known for.

Iceland Day 2: The Golden Circle

The Golden Circle is a series of landmarks near Reykjavik, comprised of Thingvellir National Park, the Geysir hot springs, and Gulfoss. It is a great introduction to the cultural and environmental history of Iceland. It took roughly 8 hours total, though the driving time from start to finish is only around 2 hours.

Thingvellir National Park, where the Norse settlers held Parliament since 800 AD and discuss the future of the country

 Thingvellir Park is home to two tectonic plates still drifting away, allowing you to walk between America and Eurasia.

It's also gorgeous with its greenery and rocky landscape, and incredibly tranquil and therapeutic just being there.

Next stop: Geysir! You can see the multitude of small hot springs all over the park.

This is Strokkur in the middle of an eruption. It goes off without fail every 8-10 minutes. I managed to be startled every time, despite staying for 3 eruptions.

Last stop: Gulfoss. It means "Golden Falls", and certainly set the waterfall bar high as our first major waterfall in Iceland.

Gulfoss from above. Words cannot describe the power and beauty of this waterfall, and this country.

Iceland Day 1: Reykjavik

We took the first day to tour the capital city, Reykjavik, and the Blue Lagoon. Little did we know, Reykjavik was the first and last major city we would explore. Iceland as a whole is so untouched, undeveloped and comprised of raw and undisturbed nature, that its capital city probably hosts the majority of the country's population. It's a quaint, typical European city with small but comfortable and cozy buildings, littered with cafes and small restaurants.

Our hotel here had the BEST breakfasts. Whole grain bread, fresh tomatoes and cucumbers, hard boiled eggs, sharp cheese, and salty salami. Also, Iceland butter is the best I've ever had. Wholesome, incredibly creamy and flavorful, and so smooth.
I can't believe it's butter! (And not Icelandic crack.)

Reykjavik is right by the ocean, and we were blessed with a sunny day. The air was a little chilly but crisp and fresh, and the salty breeze was a nice welcome.

The Sun Voyager sculpture, an ode to the sun.

Hallgrimskirkja church, designed to mimic the basalt lava columns of Iceland's cliffs.

At the Blue Lagoon. We enjoyed the complimentary face masks, and the mineral-rich waters actually did wonders for my calloused feet.

The waters were deliciously warm, which contrasted nicely with Iceland's consist 50 degrees F. 

We ended the day with a delicious dinner at the Lava restaurant at the Blue Lagoon. Here is my INCREDIBLY tender steak with hearty mushroom sauce and crisp french fries. Also pictured is a very modern and delicious Hollandaise foam.

The happiest place on earth: Iceland.

I can't remember when it was that I first started obsessing about Iceland. After learning about the Northern Lights in high school, I know that I always wanted to see them. And maybe later in college, I started seeing amazing landscapes pop up on some photography blogs, and Iceland with its thousands of waterfalls and endless varieties of landscapes drew me in. This summer, at the risk of sounding dramatic, my dreams came true. I spent a glorious, wondrous week in Iceland that was way too short. I'm going to make a series of posts, one for each day we spent in this beautiful, breathtaking country.

Loose associations:
Iceland is more beautiful in person than any photograph can convey. The fresh, crisp air, the endless, winding roads, and the untouched, raw beauty of the land. The hospitality of the people. The constantly changing landscapes from irregular, moss covered rocks like the surface of the moon, to bleak and barren black sand reminiscent of Mordor, to gently rolling hillsides with rivers winding their way to the sea. Off-white sheep dotting the craggy cliffs. Icelandic horses with their wild manes and gentle eyes. Waterfalls everywhere, surrounded by people, isolated from any living thing, small and big, roaring and trickling, an inconsistent constant of the land, always so beautiful, each one unique.

On the flight to Iceland, we had some foreshadowing.